Dave Farrow's picture

Other Mountains


Mon, 21/01/2013


The expedition attempted most peaks in the area, but there a few we did not make the summit of due to technicalities, bad snow conditions or lack of time. A few unclimbed lines on peaks we did summit are also mentioned. Photos of these mountains can be found in the google earth file and the report.
Peak 4283
This peak, to the east of Base, has a number of gullies leading to a fairly horizontal ridge of rocky pinnacles. The exact summit is not obvious, and traversing the ridge may provide consistently interesting climbing. The main rocky ridge from the south west has a fairly simple approach (see Peak 4273).
Peak 4433
Easiest route may be from the east. From the west, all routes start with long scree ascents above the glacier to reach the snow gullies (or rock ridges). In times of greater snow cover, the approach will be much easier.
Peak 4365
The west ridge rises steadily from the col on snow and ice before the first outcrops of rock are encountered. After passing the first outcrop on the north side there is a final stretch of snow before the ridge turns to rock. Climb up the ridge directly on loose rock and ice, tending towards the south side of pinnacles. We turned back on the west ridge just below the last 35m snow / ice gully pitch due to time constraints, but it looks like it would give a good route at around AD. The north-west face also holds a number of harder lines, and it may have an easier route from the east.
Peak 4256
A simple, nice-looking ridge leads south from Peak 4225 to this higher summit. Would require a camp above base camp.
Point 4218
This looks as if a fairly simple rock ridge will lead easily to the summit, the main difficulty being the retreat down the glacier, which has some unavoidable crevasses.
Peak 4383
The south-east ridge looks plausible as a rock route. The north face also looks entertaining if the serac danger is avoided.
Peak 4233
The north face looks excellent as an easy face route if the lower section was névé and not glacier ice and the top section wasn't too slushy. The glacier is the rough shape of a molar tooth; hence we referred to this face route as ‘Route Canal’.
Peak 4155
The north face looks like it gives another easy face with routes similar to that of Peak 4233.
Peak 4315
From the col, the glacier provides a simple approach to a small summit at 4260m. On finding this point had only 25m of prominence it was nick-named P25. From here the north-east snow ridge leads to the summit. In good snow conditions this would provide an excellent route at around AD. We turned back twice due to unstable snow.