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Peak 4233 'The Molar'


A: North-west flank of South-west Ridge, PD. Ascended by Michael Fordham, Matthew Graham and Joe Hobbs, 6th August 2012.

After ascending into the hanging valley a steep scree slope leads up to a col with a cairn. From this cairn drop down onto the glacier and traverse beneath the south-west face. An obvious snow slope heads steeply up from the glacier. After around 150m of ascent on a slope with an average angle of 45° the aspect eases to the broad south-west ridge. From here it is a simple scramble over rocks to the summit.


B: South-west Ridge, PD. Ascended by Dave Farrow, Bethan Gudgeon, Doug Hull and Jo Smith, 7th August 2012

From the col between Peak 4233 and Peak 4315, the ridge rises gently to join Route A after 1.5km with a few sections to keep the interest. The majority of the ridge is on snow; the first rocky top can be avoided on the left or climbed direct (Point 4187). Shortly after, two wind scoops can be walked around on the left. The first could be avoided on the right by descending to the rock just before and descending into the bowl if the steep snow on the left is unstable. The second rocky top is best avoided on the left again. Directly climbing this is possible, but would be time consuming, and require an abseil descent on the north-west side.

West ridge of Peak 4233 looking West to Peak 4315 (in cloud)

North face of Peak 4233 from base camp

North face of Peak 4233