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Peak 4273

A: West Ridge, PD. Attempted by Dave Farrow, Bethan Gudgeon, Doug Hull and Jo Smith, 5th August 2012

From the right hand side of the moraine, the rock covered glacier can be ascended to reach the upper terrace of the glacier. Objective danger and loose rock is high on this section when not frozen. The West ridge can be followed easily from here, until the ridge narrows to unstable rocky blocks and steep snow or ice. Beyond this crux, the ridge looked like it continued in a similar manner.

 

B: North Flank/Face, PD. Ascended by Dave Farrow, Bethan Gudgeon, Doug Hull and Jo Smith, 9th August 2012

A more direct route is best started from the left side of the moraine, which additionally gives a slightly better approach. Keeping close to the central rock pillar gives the easiest line of around 30-40 degrees on snow-covered ice, with the least crevasse and serac danger. Once the upper terrace has been reached, continue directly up on good snow (no climbing required). A small ridge ending in rocky boulders marks the north top. It is unclear which is the highest summit. The southern top looks highest when viewed from other summits in the area, but is hidden from the north top by the central top. The central top is composed of a secure looking 15m block with a slanting crack that might give a grade III/IV rock pitch. Getting to the base of the block involves moving across a narrow, unstable and fairly unprotected rock ridge. We only reached the north summit.

 

Summit of Peak 4273 from North top - last few metres still unclimbed.