Dave Farrow's picture

Peak 4383

A: West Ridge, AD. Ascended by Dave Farrow, Bethan Gudgeon, Doug Hull and Jo Smith, 15th August 2012

A moraine ridge leads under the northern buttress of the peak to the bottom left of the right-most glacier (looking up) in the valley. From here a simple dry glacier leads under the impressive seracs on the north face towards the western col. The route to the col is crevassed, but these can be avoided by a fairly steep (40 degrees) snow slope that leads up left to a point high on the ridge. The ridge at this point is wide and fairly flat and can be followed easily. There is an obvious gully marking the start of the final ascent that gave a Grade II snow/ice route of around 80m. The initial 20m to the base of the gully is good snow at around Grade I. We followed the steepening icy gully to mid way then branched out left to scramble up a rock section and a final snow slope. The top snow slope was unprotected and slushy to descend, but there is an abseil block from mid way. This 30m abseil ends at the top of the grade I simple snow slope. Continuing in the gully trending rightwards also looked possible, but may be trickier to descend. The actual summit is the second top; a small descent and re-ascent on snow leads to an easy (I/II) pitch of rock to the summit. The obvious rock ridge to the summit is deceptively steep; but can be avoided on the south side.

Looking up East ridge of Peak 4383

Northern slopes of Peak 4383 from Western ridge of Peak 4315

Western ridge of Peak 4383, with Peak 4218 in foreground. Taken from Peak 4215